Middlesbrough

Much of Boro’s history is standard fare: formed in 1876, did well in the First Division for a while, got interrupted by the wars, and had some good players and good (second division) seasons in the 1950s. One of those players was local boy Brian Clough, who scored an amazing 197 goals in 213 games before leaving for Sunderland. He later managed Derby County and Nottingham Forest to great success, and all three cities now honor him with a statue. By the 1960s Middlesbrough had spent a year in the third tier, but by the mid-1970s manager Jack Charlton had them back in the top division. Then more decline set in, and in 1986 they came within 10 minutes of going out of business. They were saved by another local boy, Steve Gibson, who made a fortune in trucking and still owns the club.

In the 1996-97 season, soon after moving into their new stadium, they lost the finals of both the FA Cup (0-2 to Chelsea) and League Cup (0-1 to Leicester City in a replay), and were also relegated that year.

They finished as high as seventh in the Premier League in 2003-04. Their one major trophy was the 2004 League Cup, which got them into the following season’s UEFA Cup, now called the Europa League. They made the final 16 that year, and in 2006 made the final, losing 4-0 to Sevilla of Spain. They reached The Championship semifinal in 2023, before falling to Coventry.

2024–25 SEASON: 10th in the Championship, 3rd Round FA Cup, 2nd Round League Cup

2025–26 SEASON: The Championship (relegated in 2017)

North East neighbors Newcastle and Sunderland. Each city has its own river, and therefore name, for the derby. In Middlesbrough, on the River Tees or just in Teesside, it’s the Tees-Wear derby and the Tees-Tyne derby.

Middlesbrough WFC play in the Women’s National League Division One North at tier 4. Home games are at Bishopton Road, but occasionally at the Riverside. Find out more at middlesbroughwomenfc.co.uk.

Before games, they play the same song, “Papa’s Got a Brand New Pig Bag,” also used by Queens Park Rangers. We will make no attempt to sort out who did it first. They also seem quite fond of “You Are My Boro,” sung to “You Are My Sunshine.”

The Riverside is yet another example of the perfectly rectangular modern stadium. It seats 34,742 people and has been their home since 1995, when they moved over from the old Ayresome Park. One nice feature is that the old gates from Ayresome Park are outside the main entrance.

There are statues of Wilf Mannion and George Hardwick, two local lads who played for Boro in the 1940s and ’50s and made the England team.

Away fans will be in the southeast corner, with the home rowdies (known as the Red Faction) in the nearby south end.

TOURS: Offered during the season on Mondays, Thursdays, and Sundays for £10 by the club’s charitable foundation. Book ahead on the club’s website.

GETTING THERE: It’s a pretty easy walk of just under a mile from the station.

PUBS: The closest pub to the station is the roomy but unexciting Isaac Wilson. Closest to the ground is the Six Medals, a big and family-friendly place with a large menu and outdoor seating, and the Navigation.

But the beer-lover’s action is in the city center, where a thriving microbrew scene has taken hold. Look for the tiny Infant Hercules, the refurbished Twisted Lip, and the simple but nice Sherlock’s.

GRUB: We tracked down three good places on our visit, all now closed. So…try the center!

There is also a local dish called parmo, which is a fried pork (or sometimes chicken) cutlet covered in béchamel sauce and cheddar cheese. You might think that it is made with parmesan, but not so. It is also said to have been invented by an American who opened a restaurant there after serving in the area as an army chef in World War II.

AROUND TOWN: Let’s talk about this Transporter Bridge, because you’ll be hearing a lot about it anyway. It seems to be The Main Thing in Middlesbrough. It’s obviously not a Transformer bridge that turns into a monster, though that would be cool. It is, in fact, a 1911 ferry bridge officially known as the Tees Transporter Bridge. It’s a ferry in that up to 200 people and nine cars can ride in its moving part across the river in 90 seconds, but it’s a bridge because the “car” isn’t on the water. It is now out of use, for at least a time, while they check its integrity, but the Visitors Center is open.

Middlesbrough was, during the Industrial Revolution and up until the middle of the 20th century, a center for iron, steel, and shipbuilding. Its nickname was Ironopolis. This means that much of the city was destroyed during World War II, leaving a fairly modern city center.

You can go down to Albert Park and see the statue of Brian Clough; he’s probably the only football person honored with a statue in three cities. The park is also a nice place for a walkabout. Southfield Road is a hip area near Teesside University. The Captain Cook Birthplace Museum honors the life and explorations of the famous explorer. And outside the Institute of Modern Art lies the rather striking Bottle of Notes sculpture.

It’s not the most exciting place. But if you are into exploring the countryside, you are very close to a real treasure: the North York Moors National Park. You can take a train from Middlesbrough to the beautiful coastal town of Whitby, passing through fantastic little villages along the way. You can hop on and off the train for walks and pubs and bike rides, but Whitby itself is a treat. The fish and chips at The Fisherman’s Wife are outstanding, as is the view of the beach. The park’s website is northyorkmoors.org.uk. The dramatic (for the area) peak you will see on the way is Roseberry Topping, a reasonable walk from the station at Great Ayton.

There is also, at certain times of the year, a steam-powered North Yorkshire Moors Railway (founded in 1836) that goes deep into the countryside and runs steam trains. Their website is nymr.co.uk.