Real Sociedad

Real Sociedad de Fútbol was founded in 1909 by students and workers returning to San Sebastian from England; it split off from the existing San Sebastian Football Club. They reached the Copa del Rey in their very first season before losing to their now great rivals Athletic Bilbao.

Real Sociedad was a founding member of the Primera División in 1929, but during most of their early history they were a yo-yo club bouncing between the first and second divisions of Spanish football. This was very apparent in the 1940s when they were relegated and promoted a staggering 7 times.

Real Sociedad really hit their stride and gained success in the late 70s and early 80s. During this time they won La Liga two times and were runners-up another two times. They also managed to secure a Copa del Rey title in 1987, their second in their history and their first since 1909. This was also during their longest stay in La Liga, which lasted 40 years from 1967 to 2007.

The club began to struggle in the mid 2000s when they were relegated to the second division, where they spent the next 3 seasons. Even after making it back to La Liga, the club went through a number of managerial changes, creating a sense of unrest within the club. However, recently Sociedad have regained some of their previous success, defeating their Basque rivals Athletic Bilbao in the sadly fan-free 2020 Copa del Rey final and, for the 2023-24 season, qualifying for the UEFA Champions League for the first time in over 10 years.

2022–23 SEASON: 4th in La Liga, Copa del Rey quarterfinal

2023–24 SEASON: La Liga, Champions League

Real Sociedad shares a fierce rivalry with Athletic Bilbao which is known as the Basque derby. This rivalry has very strong regional ties as both teams come from the Basque capitals of San Sebastian and Bilbao.

This rivalry is also so well known because these two clubs are the largest in the Basque regions and have spent the most time in La Liga. There was also a time in the 1980s when 4 titles were won in a row between the two clubs, while only using local players.

While this is a fierce rivalry, the fans of these two clubs often get along quite well on game days. On derby days, the fans will have a parade with both supporters present, along with singing and poetry competitions, and they mix together at the game, apparently without incident.

During the 100+ year history of this derby, there have only been a handful of seasons where it has not taken place. This was due to Real Sociedad being relegated, as Athletic Bilbao has never been relegated.

Athletic Bilbao holds a slight advantage in victories over the nearly 200 games played, with a 79-62 advantage as of January 2024.

Get to Know the Athletic Bilbao-Real Sociedad Derby

One of the oldest derbies in Spanish football, the derby between Athletic Bilbao and Real Sociedad is also a celebration of Basque culture.

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Real Sociedad Femenino was founded in 2004, and the club secured two promotions in their first two seasons, landing them in the top division of women’s football in Spain. The club usually plays their home matches at Zubieta training centre, but they have played bigger games like the Basque Derby at Anoeta Stadium, home of the men’s team. The club received their first major trophy in 2019 when they defeated Atletico Madrid in the Copa de la Reina final.

Here, from our YouTube channel, is the Real Sociedad fans singing their pregame anthem before a 2023 win over Rayo Vallecano.

Real Sociedad play their home games at Anoeta Stadium, also called Reale Arena, which is the club’s third stadium. Sociedad played at Ondarreta Stadium from 1909-1913 and Atocha Stadium from 1913-1993. Anoeta replaced Atocha in 1993 and increased the capacity by over 20,000. The stadium has undergone several upgrades over the years, including a project in 2016 to expand the capacity and remove the athletic track surrounding the field.

It’s a beautiful, modern stadium a short walk from the famous city center and waterfront.

GETTING THERE: The stadium is an easy 30-minute walk from the main train station in town, just south of the city center. From the famous Old Town and its waterfront, the walk is more like an hour. Along the way you will pass a secondary station called Amara Donastia, where you can grab a tram E2 towards Hendaia; that will stop right by the station at Anoeta. You can also take a bus 17 (Miramón) or 37 (Mendigain) from the main train station.

PUBS AND GRUB: There is a cluster of places right around the stadium where folks will be eating, drinking and hanging out like proper Spanish / Basque folk. When I was there, Bar Udane had a good crowd, as did Campus. The biggest and closest scene is at Bar Sacha and on the next street over, where Gozona and Cerveceria Txamarta anchor a lively outdoor scene. Just aim for any of those, and you’ll find a friendly, vibrant mix of home and away fans.

AROUND TOWN: San Sebastián, or Donastia in its Basque name, is a delight, with its seaside location, charming old town, and terrific food and weather. Well, it does rain a bit more in this northern part of Spain, but sometimes that’s a cooling break from Madrid, Barcelona and points farther south.

Just a few things recommended from my visit:

A walk around the historic waterfront has to be done, and then extend it with a short stroll up the hill to the old castle and great views at Motako Gaztelua. Also beautiful, across the bay, is Monte Igeldo Parkea, which a cable car (funicular) can get you up to.

And you 100% should take a walking tapas tour in Old Town. During that time, I discovered the follow treats, but really, the quality and experience of tapas — which the Basque call pintxos — on a guided tour is remarkable. Then just pepper the guides with questions about where else to go, but I can vouch for these places:

• Maiatza for breakfast
• La Mejillonera for stand-up mussels
• Bergara for lunch
• La Viña for cheesecake

Other popular tours are to wineries and small villages in the area.