Stevenage

First, there was Stevenage Town, which formed in 1889 and lasted until 1969, when it went broke. It was replaced by Stevenage Athletic, which went bust in 1976. Then came the  current club, Stevenage Borough FC, which almost died again in 2009 but was saved— and dropped Borough from its name. So we are talking about a club on the fringes.

They toiled around in the lower reaches of the English Football Pyramid until the mid-1990s, then made the Conference and stayed there until 2010. During the 1997-98 season, they drew Newcastle at home in the FA Cup. They held the then-mighty Magpies, who actually played Alan Shearer, to a 1-1 draw, then lost the replay at St. James’ Park, 2-1, on a controversial Shearer goal that many say didn’t cross the line.

Since then, they have bounced back and forth between League One and League Two, with a highlight being 2011-12, when they made the Round of 16 in the FA Cup, held Tottenham at home, and lost a replay at White Hart Lane.

In 2019, they almost made the playoffs to get into League One, but the next season the bottom fell out. They finished last in the final table, but when Macclesfield Town got a huge points penalty for financial shenanigans and Bury went out of business, Stevenage were spared relegation. In 2022 they were 21st and safe by just three points, but had a complete reversal in 2023, finishing 2nd in League Two, earning them promotion to League One.

2024–25 SEASON: 14th in League One, 2nd Round FA Cup, 1st Round League Cup

2025–26 SEASON: League One (promoted in 2023)

Luton Town, now a couple of leagues above them in the Premier League, and Barnet, now a league below them in League Two.

Stevenage FC Women play in the Eastern Region Women’s Football League, tier 5 of the pyramid, with games at The County Ground in Letchworth, Hertfordshire.

Nothing in particular. When we saw them win a game, they did a fun back-and-forth Tetris dance.

Their home since 1980 is called The Lamex; that’s a sponsorship thing, and its real name is the far superior Broadhall Way. The capacity last year was 7,800, with just under half of those being seats. But in 2022 they debuted a new North Stand, funded in part by £500,000 raised from 200 supporters. Last we saw, the visitors were in the South Stand, the family section was in the North, the hospitality and bar in the South, and the rowdies on the East Terrace. Go stand with the lads and do it right.

It’s across a major road from a shopping center and a Burger King. It’s also next to a piece of forest you can see on a map, but that’s more of a reclamation project than anything. Still, it’s a modern and cozy little ground with several things we like about these lower-league clubs: many people outside greeting each other by name, a ticket office worker happy to welcome an American and encourage him to “tell your friends back home we need the support,” a handwritten list of upcoming games, a “wall of fame” with no one you’ve ever heard of, and a sparse club bar filled with fans of both clubs happily knocking back a few pints and comparing notes on their seasons.

Tottenham also uses the ground for some youth games.

TOURS: We can’t imagine a tour has ever been requested!

GETTING THERE: Stevenage station is 25 minutes on the train from London’s King’s Cross. From there, it’s about a 30-minute walk. The nearest bus stop is about 10 minutes away, so a taxi is a good call, especially if you pop over to the high street for food and drink before.

PUBS: There is a small, family-friendly bar at the ground. There are several pubs on the high street in town, including a Wetherspoon pub called the Standing Order. The Marquis of Lorne offers traditional cask ales, and a lovely meal is available at The Chequers, which also has outdoor seating.

GRUB: It’s the usual stuff at the ground; hit one of the high street pubs or Misya for some decent Turkish.

AROUND TOWN: Ask any local: nothing happens here! It’s mainly a bedroom community for London, and the only thing you’re going to be here for is the game and a pregame pint. Walking in from the station, though, after you cross a motorway, you will be greeted by a mural featuring a surprising number of people who have some connection to the place. Walk about 15 minutes left to the high street, get something to eat and drink, and then catch a cab to the game.