Lazio

The official name is SS Lazio, the SS standing for Società Sportiva, or Sports Club. It was founded in 1900, and since then, the story of the club’s squadra di calcio is one of mostly top-tier football, a few trophies, some financial problems, a couple of scandals that almost took them down, and a history of right-wing, even fascist, politics among some supporters.

They joined the new Serie A in 1929 and finished second in 1937, but otherwise didn’t accomplish a lot until 1958, when they won their first Coppa Italia. A couple of relegations followed, but in 1974 they claimed their first (of two) league titles, which you’ll see referred to in Italy as the Scudetto.

In 1980 they were bounced down to Serie B, the second tier, because of a betting scandal involving betting on their own games. It happened again in 1986, when another betting scandal and ensuing points reduction almost knocked them down to Serie C, but they recovered by the end of the decade and went on their greatest-ever run of seasons.

In 1992 they hired manager Sergio Cragnotti and started spending some big money, including for legendary English midfielder Paul Gascoigne. They were second in the league in 1995, third in 1996, fourth in 1997, second again in 1999, and finally hit the jackpot with a Scudetto in 2000. For good measure, they won the Coppa again that year to complete the double.

Amongst all that, their 1998 Coppa win also got to them into the old Cup Winners’ Cup, which is now basically the Europa League. They won that, beating Spanish club Mallorca in the final at Aston Villa’s Villa Park. That team also went on to win the UEFA Super Cup, beating Manchester United in that final at Monaco.

But the money ran out, Cragnotti had to leave due to a non-club-related financial scandal, and many top players were sold. Since then, they haven’t seriously challenged for the league title, though they have become something of a Coppa specialists, racking up four more wins since 2000 for a total of seven, putting them fourth on the list of winning clubs. During the 2022-23 season, Lazio finished in 2nd, giving them their best finish since they won the league in 2000.

As for the right-wing stuff, one can assume there are people of all political persuasions at all clubs, and perhaps more fascists in Italy than some other countries. But Lazio ultras, it has to be said, have, among other things, hung up a banner taunting Roma about Auschwitz, distributed leaflets showing Anne Frank in a Roma shirt, and other such things. The club and police have cracked down on all of this, and now it doesn’t seem to be any bigger an issue at Lazio than it is at any other place where tends of thousands of people gather.

2022–23 SEASON: 2nd in Serie A, Round of 16 Europa Conference League, quarterfinal Coppa Italia.

2023–24 SEASON: Serie A, UEFA Champions League 

The Lazio-Roma derby, known as the Derby della Capitale, or Capital Derby, is said to be one of the most intense in world football. Other than sharing a city and a stadium, the antipathy goes back to the founding of Roma, when a leading fascist government official in Rome wanted to improve the city’s record against the dominant teams from the north. So he decided to merge everyone together into a new Roma, but Lazio resisted.

They first met in 1929, and there have been more than 180 matches since then, Roma leading the way with 67 wins. Lazio’s most famous was in the 2013 Coppa Italia final, the only time the two have met in the final. It was 1-0 that day, and the date of May 26 seems to be celebrated as a kind of holiday among the Lazio faithful.

There have been many incidents, on and off the pitch, but let’s just say that it’s extremely intense, and we think you should go see it if you can. And since Groundhopper Guides sells tickets to both clubs, you can!

There is said to be a lot of hatred towards Napoli, as well.

Here is a video about the heated Derby della Capitale:

SS Lazio Women 2015 were actually founded in 1969 under another name, and in 1975 became part of the parent club. They were a force in the 1980s with four league titles, but then they faded. The 2015 refers to a reorganization as an independent business owned by the Lazio men’s team.

They are now in Serie A Femminile for the 2023-24 season, after finishing in 2nd for the 2022-23 season. Home games are at the club’s training facility; check the club’s website for more information.

There seem to be two of them, and with our limited Italian, we can’t sort out which is more of a big deal. One is called “Lazio Grande Lazio” and the other “Vola Lazio Vola.” The former is a bit more upbeat and produced.

The Stadio Olimpico was first built in 1937, but due to World War II it wasn’t properly finished until 1953. It got  some work done, and its current name, when it hosted the opening and closing ceremonies of the 1960 Olympics. It got even more work, and its roof, for the 1990 World Cup, in which it hosted five games, including the Final. It has hosted four European Cup / Champions League Finals, most recently in 2009; two European Championships Finals; and it annually hosts the final of the Coppa Italia.

Its just over 70,000 seats are in a simple oval, with each end called, in Italian, a curva. It’s in the Curva Nord that Lazio’s ultras sit (Roma’s are in the Curva Sud).

Both Lazio and Roma have said they wish to build a new stadium, but one can only imagine the bureaucratic and financial nightmare such a thing would be in Rome. Neither club has made much progress,

TOURS: There are several variations available here.

GETTING THERE: Stadio Olimpico (Google Maps link) is just northwest of the city center, in the 1960 Olympic village along the River Tiber. The closest tram stop, on Line 2, is just across the river at Mancini. You can also take the Metro to Ottaviano, then bus 32 to right by the stadium.

PUBS: There is a cluster of places to eat and drink just east of the stadium, on the same side of the river, around Piazzale di Ponte Milvio. If nothing else, aim for the big, fun Roma Beer Company, and you’ll be surrounded by options.

GRUB: Groundhopper Emily, on our staff, lives in Italy, and she insisted we go to a nearby pastry shop (pasticceria) called Pompi to get a little piece of sweetened magic called maritozzo con panna. We don’t know if it’s a traditional Roman or football thing, but it is a cream bun with dried fruit, and you need to go get one.

Otherwise, you’re in Rome, so it would be hard not to find something good to eat.

AROUND TOWN: Again, it’s Rome! We won’t bother with a tourist guide here. Just go, see some calcio, and enjoy yourselves.